Olives, like Marmite, tend to polarise foodies into ‘I hate them’ or ‘I love olives’ camp.
Which one are you?
If you love olives like I do, let me introduce you to the olive of Nyons.
Nyons is a small town in northern Provence surrounded by hills. They help create a pleasant all-year round microclimate warm enough for olive trees to thrive.
But you may be wondering, what’s so special about an olive and in particular the olive of Nyons?
The Day I Discovered the Black Olive from Nyons
First, let me tell you about my first encounter.
One day when I was home from school, Mum returned from the market with a basket full and handed me a small, transparent plastic sachet filled with dark-coloured roundish things.
Seeing my big wondering eyes, she gave me one.
It was a fruit no bigger than the top of my thumb.
Oval, it looked plump and wrinkly, dark and shiny.
In the sachet some were brown, bur brown, others were violet, almost black.
I tried one.
How odd.
I almost spit it out thinking it would be sweet, like other fruits I liked.
But no.
It was fleshy, slightly salty with a hint of bitterness.
Mum said, “so?”
Not sure I liked it but it tasted like more.
She rinsed the olives, let them drip-dry before filling a glass screw-top jar.
Then, she added a large gulp of olive oil and a sprinkling of herbs of Provence before gently shaking the pot to distribute the aromatics.
The following days, I noticed Mum used them in different ways.
Olives are versatile.
No doubt there.
What makes this Olive Special
Much later, I found out the olive of Nyons is truly one of a kind:
• Called Tanche, this olive varietal only grows in one geographical area, in and around Nyons, Les Baronnies in Drôme provençale and northern Vaucluse.
• The Romans introduced olives trees in the area around 1100 B.C. and over the years, the plants adapted to this microclimate even though periods of frost are not unusual in winter.
• When the olives are ripe, harvest takes place, typically from late October to December. Do you want to know when an olive straight from the tree is ripe? Whatever you do, don’t try one, it’s very bitter. Instead, press an olive gently between thumb and forefinger. If it’s ripe it will give, no matter the colour of the fruit.
• Once harvested, the best olives are cured in brine for several months before they can be eaten. The others are taken to the mill and pressed into a fruity olive oil chefs appreciate.
• The olive Tanche was the first in France and Europe to be granted une Appelation d’Origine in 1968. A sure sign of quality that also recognises its terroir.
• You may ask, can I eat green olives of Nyons? And the answer is no: it’s not a variety appreciated when green.
How to Enjoy Them
Now you may be wondering how best to enjoy them.
I already mentioned Tanche olives are versatile, they embellish dishes and add another layer of taste and texture.
Really, they are delicious eaten as is, as a snack with almonds or added to cold or cooked dishes.
For example, scatter a handful over juicy heirloom sliced tomatoes with torn fresh basil and a drizzle of Nyons olive oil for a satisfying light summer lunch best eaten with crusty bread.
Or enliven a classic ratatouille with the dark savoury pearls.
For an apéritif south of France fashion, blend a cupful (don’t forget to remove the stones before!) into an olive paste or a tapenade.
Spread it thick on crusty bread to accompany drinks.
Their salty umami flavour teases the taste buds in a pleasant way…
A Visit to La Tanche’s home
If you plan to visit where la Tanche grows to sample what’s on offer, Nyons is a good place to start.
When you first arrive, you’ll notice the silver green orchards flanked on the steep hillsides surrounding the town. They glitter when the sun shines.
Grab a map from the tourist information office and go on a walk to better get acquainted with these ancient gnarly trees. If you are lucky, you’ll hear them whispering.
Then you can find out more at the olive museum or at the local cooperative, Vignolis.
You may even decide to visit an artisan producer or an ancient mill. And like me buy enough Tanche olives to savour all year round.
Conclusion
If you’ve acquired a taste for olives, you know they come in many colours and sizes. Their taste varies too.
La Tanche olive, only grown in and around Nyons is a fine product recognised by a quality label.
Are you ready to try it?